Where Company Is King
Sun Herald
Sunday October 12, 2008
Guy Wilkinson enjoys a more relaxed pace of life at a historic guest house in Victoria.
'We thought this room would be to your liking," laughs guest house owner Patrick Buckley as he turns the key to unlock the bedroom door. Initially, I'm a little confronted by the spectacle before me. A heady mix of pastel pinks adorns the walls, bedspreads, pillow cases, cushions and just about everything else in the room. Above the queen size bed, large wooden letters spell the word "Bed".Ordinarily such a scene might cause me to flee in panic but somehow in the context of this distinctive waterfront guest house, it works. Just metres from the Mallacoota coastal inlet, Karbeethong Lodge is a charming home away from home on the edge of Victoria's Croajingolong National Park. Built in 1903, the place has been fully renovated in a sophisticated colonial style, yet it's surprisingly unpretentious. Each of the 12 bedrooms has their own personality; they've all been designed with a different look and a conscientious attention to detail. About half the rooms open to the front veranda, providing impressive views across the water, while the others look on to the central courtyard or the surrounding bush. Most contain ensuite bathrooms. There's a spacious communal kitchen for guests to cook their own meals and a shared dining room. But it's the main living room that's most eye-catching. Enormous windows offer views across the Mallacoota inlet where the water meets the hills further out towards the horizon. The floor, draped with Persian rugs, is filled with comfy chairs and sofas. A stuffed bookshelf sits next to a crackling log fire. It's the kind of room to turn a rugged outdoor type into a Harry Potter fiend. The emphasis at Karbeethong Lodge is less about formality and luxury and more about relaxation and the chance to meet new people. You could almost see it as an upmarket backpackers for the slightly older generation: those who enjoy the social aspect of shared accommodation but perhaps don't relish the grime. The lodge's location also makes it a dream spot for wildlife and outdoor enthusiasts. The region has some excellent surf breaks, great fishing and boating opportunities, as well as some outstanding bushwalking trails. If that's not to your liking the seaside village of Mallacoota - just minutes away - has a few restaurants, a bakery, several shops, a cliff-top golf course and a pub with live music. Later in the afternoon I team up with a few other guests to take a guided cruise of the Croajingolong Park waterways onboard the historic Porky Bess. The charters are run by Patrick's brother, Simon Buckley, a waterman with an almost encyclopedic knowledge of the area.Trundling through narrow estuaries in our creaking wooden vessel, I enjoy a brief Apocalypse Now moment alone on the bow. There's a chill setting in but the surroundings more than offset the discomfort. As well as the koalas clinging to eucalyptus trees, we spy a sea eagle hovering high above the water before it's time to head back. Following dinner, a few of us stay up late playing cards and enjoying several glasses of local wine by the fire. In the absence of a television, it's startling to see how much more of an effort people make. As the night wears on we swap stories before stumbling to bed in the dark. We promise to stay in touch. Of course, we won't. Soon it'll be back to the Big Smoke to resume our hectic lives. Perhaps that's the best thing about this place: for a while at least, life certainly seems simpler and undoubtedly less frantic. TRIP NOTES* Getting there Driving: Karbeethong Lodge is off Highway 1, 6 1/2 hours' drive south of Sydney, three hours from Canberra and about five hours north-east of Melbourne. The left hand turn to Karbeethong Lodge is clearly signposted as you approach the Mallacoota township. Flights: Regional Express Airlines (REX) flies to Merimbula from Sydney. Hire cars are available for the one-hour drive to Mallacoota from Merimbula airport.* Staying there Karbeethong Lodge is at 16 Schnapper Point Drive, Mallacoota, Victoria 3892. A range of room sizes are available to suit families, groups of friends, singles or couples. Rates range from $75 a double or twin room a night to $220 a night, depending on room and season. For stays of three days or more, there is a discount of 10 per cent. For bookings, phone (03) 5158 0411 or see www.karbeethonglodge.com.au.* Other facilities The lodge is equipped with volleyball courts, badminton net and games and barbeques. It is within walking distance of a boat hire shed.
© 2008 Sun Herald
